On Vitamin B3 in cosmetics, and why you should use it

Vitamin B3 (nicotinamide, or niacinamide) is one of the most important active ingredients for healthy and youthful skin you can find.  Like vitamin C, it is involved in many biochemical processes that ensure skin health and beauty.  When it’s in short supply, we develop pellagra, a disease characterized by skin breakouts, but also brain woes, in the form of dementia.  What does it do that’s so good?  Let’s dive in and find out.

In our bodies, vitamin B3 serves as a precursor to a coenzyme that produces ATP (adenosine triphosphate), which you can think of as cellular fuel-ATP enables all energy-driven biochemical processes in our bodies.  It is safe to say that life as we know it runs on ATP.  When it comes to skin health, vitamin B3 has many roles to play:

Reducing Inflammation

It can soothe inflamed skin by inhibiting the pro-inflammatory cytokines.  Because of that, it can effectively treat inflammatory skin conditions:

·        Acne-Several studies have shown that vit. B3 gel, when applied topically is as effective as an antibiotic cream, which is standard of care for inflammatory acne.  As an aside, we at Dr Ella do not pooh-pooh antibiotics, but we recognize that they should be used with caution.  Vitamin B3 presents an effective, antibiotic-free alternative for acne treatment. 

·        Rosacea-An inflammatory autoimmune disease that’s characterized by swollen, red blotches on the face, is effectively treated by topical B3 treatment.  Studies show that supplementation with vitamin B3 is also beneficial for treatment of rosacea. 

Treating Atopic Dermatitis

People with AD usually have dry skin, with decreased levels of lipids called ceramides.  Ceramides are important for maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing loss of moisture across the skin.  Vit. B3 increases the ceramide formation, thus improving the skin barrier, which is important for both skin health as well as fighting the signs of ageing.

Reducing Hyperpigmentation

It promotes skin lightness, which translates to fewer hyperpigmentation spots that come with ageing, excessive sun exposure, or can sometimes accompany pregnancy.    

Improving the Look of Ageing Skin

It’s not a surprise that whatever maintains skin’s health and function will also be beneficial in reducing the signs of ageing.  Split-face studies, in which only one half of the face was treated with vit. B3 cream have shown significant improvement in appearance of wrinkles, skin roughness, dark and red spots, and skin elasticity. 

Protection Against Skin Cancers*

Almost all non-melanoma skin cancers, and ~60% of melanomas are caused by UV damage to the skin.  There are two primary ways that this happens-UV can damage DNA as well as cause immunosuppression, both of which can lead to skin cancer.  We are equipped with DNA repair mechanisms, of course, but they are energy-demanding, meaning they consume ATP, the cellular fuel mentioned above.  Vitamin B3 is involved in ATP production, providing the necessary energy to repair damaged DNA.  Animal studies have shown that it is also helpful in reversing the UV-caused immunosuppression. 

When it comes to dietary intake, vitamin B3 is most abundant in the yeast product Vegemite.  Those of us who don’t consume the divisive spread can get plenty from meats, eggs, mushrooms, peanuts, and coffee.  Vitamin B3 is water-soluble, which means that it is easily transported through the body.  In developed countries, its deficiency is very rare, however those who abuse alcohol can get deficient. 

Vitamin B3 the molecule, is far easier to formulate into creams than vitamin C, since, unlike vitamin C, it is stable to both air and light.  Given that stability, it can be used morning or night, and its creams and potions last a long time. 

Dr Lasio gives vitamin B3 two enthusiastic thumbs up-it is a versatile ingredient that can help many resolve their skin concerns-both acne-suffering teenagers and their mothers who want to keep the wrinkles at bay can find solutions in vitamin B3 creams.  It has an excellent safety record, and it is inexpensive, which is another important point.  The creams containing vitamin B3 do not need to cost an arm and a leg.  Give it a try in your cosmetics routine-It will not disappoint. 

*Disclaimer:  None of this is medical advice.  Consult your physician for all your medical concerns.